Friday, October 8, 2010

Let them eat cake!

As you might have guessed by that title, today my friend Lisa and I went to Versailles.  The evening before Lisa read the guide books and maps to determine the closest train station and the train line we would be going on. The book said leave early in the morning to get there near opening as this is a time that it is the least crowded.  We left the apartment at about 7:45 and found the train station.  It was about a 15 minute walk.  We walked past the Sobonne, the Sobonne(university) library and the natural history museum to get to the Gare d' Austerlitz. All so good, we discovered that this was not a simple train station but it also had the metro and  police station attached.  It was here that we did a lot of asking directions and went around and up and down the same places until we found the correct platform for the rer c, line c to versailles.  The first train we hopped on we hopped off as the stations that we passed looked like we were going into the heart of Paris and not south west where Versailles was suppose to be.  After getting off we checked the map and asked someone and we found that we had been on the correct train as the train goes though the heart of Paris and then turns south to reach Versailles. Lisa and I got to talking about old work related subjects and nearly missed our stop.  We arrived at the Versailles Chantier station.  Apparently there is another station called Versailles RG(rive gauge) but we never did find that.  Someone pointed us in the direction of Versailles and off we went.  At this point I turned on my Ped. GPS and it gave us the precise directions and street names plus a colored strip to guide us the right way.  The Rick Steves book although I am very grateful for his efforts did not give us the street names of the streets we were to walk down.    But for the reader I will tell you that the street in front of Versailles is the Blvd de Paris.  I recognized now the parking lots and entrance to Versailles from being there with John that one day.    The car parking lot and the amount of tour buses in the lots were very little and I definately felt this was a good sign.
We took out or passes and approached the entrance.  Everyone has to go though a scanner or at least their purses do and there was no lines for this. After this scanning process you can enter the large court yard which allows you to decide if you want to go to the actual Chateau rooms or to the Gardens.  We chose the Chateau rooms first. To start with the chateau you go though door H.  It was at this point that it started getting crowded. We were able to get free auto guides. The guide book said they would cost 6 euros but they were free.  Maybe they are free on Thursdays.   Any way the little auto guides are a one piece little machine with numbers and a go symbol and you hold it to your ear as you see important rooms that a number is displayed.  As you are going though the Chateau, you go though several rooms with portraits and paintings of the past dignitaries associated with Versailles, several portraits of Louis and other Kings,  A room with a lot of portraits of Women that I supposed to be the Queens.  But Lisa pointed out that the women all looked pretty much alike.  We presummed that either there likeness was due to the fact that they were closely breed or the painter only knew how to paint one face.  I was thinking maybe this room was portraits of one Queen who had her portrait painted each year.  Unfortunately there were few docents available and not particulary friendly.  And then there was that language problem.
I am sure for the French learning all about the history of France and seeing the pictures are familiar to them as seeing pictures of Washington, Lincoln, the white house et. al is to us Americans.  And although it was interesting one or may I say moi began to find it a little too much for my interest.  It reminded me of all those rooms you must go through to before you reach the Sistine Chapel in Rome.  The climax of the actual Louis !4th apartment rooms were at the top of a long staircase.  Then their was a number you punched into your auto guide that said now you are entering the Versailles tour of the living quarters.
It was at this point in the tour where it started to get even more crowded and I was happy that I had not forced John to go on this tour.  We reached the very splendid  room of the Hall of Mirrors.  I have to admit this is magnificent and well worth the tour.  The windows overlook the gardens.  The mirrors, Chandileers, and the ceiling paintings are fantastic.  I was in awe.  It was at this time that Lisa and I lost track of each other. It was at this time that I noticed the groups getting larger and the hall filling up. I also realized after seeing the mob of people who were enjoying the room as I was how it was a good thing John had not been there.  He hates waiting in lines and now with all the people there it was 6 feet deep with people to view the rooms off the Hall of Mirrors.  This must be what it was like when Louie invited the public to visit.  He said to his queen we are here to serve the public and we should allow them to visit the palace.  And apparently he opened the palace to the public and they came.  As the story goes,  this was the first time in history of European monarchy that royalty allowed its citizens to be a part of the royal court.  The one stipulation was that they had to obey the rules of proper editique.  To me this tells us that  this is why the French are such sticklers for formality.  Louie set the standard and the French people want to continue it.  Or at least some of the French people.
After I realized that Lisa and I had got separated I stood around and waited hoping that she would turn up.  However that did not happen and I finally did find her at the end of the tour.  After the hall of mirrors were the Kings anti room and the kings bedroom, the queens bedroom and her sitting room.  I did not see any water closets and there was no one around to report what was used.  Our auto guides did not have a section on that subject.
Besides the viewing of the rooms, all who went on this tour was treated to a spectacular show of Japannese Animae  characters.  I do not know if this was for the children or some how the agent of this modern Japannees artist was a fast talker and talked  the Versailles administration into allowing them to display these animae sculptures.  Lisa and I couldn't quite figure this sculpture show out as here were these very modern sculptured colorful animae characters against 17/18 furniture.  Talk about a captured audience for this Japanee.  This artist is suppose to be a very famous Japnnese Artist.  My daughter probly know about him.  I will find out later what his name is and put it in this blog later.  Any way these sculptures were very colorful and the one that was in the Garden was golden and super sized.  I took some pictures and when i can match my pictures with the subject you will get a gigle at the sculptures in this 17 century backround.
After I found Lisa we went to lunch. They have a nice cafeteria type lunch setting and also they have some full cafe's so you do not have to leave the grounds.   I would say that a trip to Versailles would be about 6 hrs.
Lunch was good and the price was not bad.  We were able to sit down at a table without waiting and enjoy our meal.  They even had wine and beer as part of the beverages for those who would like to partake.
ON TO THE GARDENS.
After our lunch we headed out to the massive gardens.  Someone said the size of the gardens was as big as
Paris.  I can not believe this but I have to admit it covers an expanse that is more than the eye can see.  I would call this sections gardens and forests. Lakes and Ponds, houses, stables and Marie Antoinetts own Chateau.  As the story continues once Louie opened the Palace to the public, Marie felt a little claustephobic.  She asked Louis if he would allow her to have her own chateau on the grounds.  She stipulated that this would be for her use only, to entertain him and her decided guests.  When you see the gardens at Versailles you can see her Chateau and her little hamlet.  The grounds according to the main guide takes 40 minutes to walk to the main garden.  Fortunately they provide you with some modes of transportation to see the different parts of the gardens.  There is a golf cart you can rent for 30 E an hour.  There is a tram, that takes you and about 30 others around the gardens for 12 e.  We took the tram.  The gardens were spectacular.  When you think that in the Days of Louis 14 that the gardens were even more beautiful and well cared for you are amazed at the wealth and care  it must have taken to maintain these gardens.  There are three main  areas of the gardens that  everyone who is visiting Versailles can enjoy at their own pace.  The gardens are free to the public and as I choose to sit on a bench in the woods near a pond, I spoke with a French gentleman who had come from Paris for the day just to enjoy the gardens.  He said he has been coming here for the past 60 years and he comes as often as he can.  The chateau of Marie Antionette was a lovely large country house with her own garden.  However besides the chateau, she had Louis build for her a small hamlet of houses, stables and even a little mill for her to enjoy as her own domain. There is also a beautiful pavillion and a little theather.
I could go on and on about these gardens but once I get my pictures ready you will see some of the different parts.  Also go to youtube.
It took us about 3 hrs to go though the gardens and we would have stayed longer but the gardens were going to close and it was time for us to go.  We were hoping we would find a short cut back to the train station.  We asked for advise and they gave us the same directions that we had used earlier. When we got to the train station unfortunately we got on the wrong train and were heading out into the country.  We did the logical thing as we got off the next stop and took the next train back to the Versailles station.  Our next try at picking out the station was the correct one and we happily were on the way back to Paris.  It was a long walk from the train and after a few blocks as it was now dark we found a taxie to take us back.  By the time we came home, walked the two flights of stairs, we nearly fell into bed





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